Watches that stole the show at Watches and Wonders 2026

Seiko Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver. — Photo: Seiko

In a year where horology doubled down on high-end craftsmanship, Watches and Wonders 2026 saw brands blending innovative design with storied heritage in Geneva.

From audacious new complications to the refinement of iconic silhouettes, here’s a short curated list of pieces that have our attention.

Refined luxury

The latest chapter in Cartier’s horological journey begins with a rendition of the Santos-Dumont.

At its heart lies a dial carved from a razor-thin slice of Mexican obsidian, a volcanic treasure that drinks in the light.

It reveals a hidden galaxy of iridescent flickers, thanks to microscopic air bubbles trapped within the stone – a natural detail that guarantees your watch will fascinate just about anyone.

This dark, cosmic elegance is paired with a yellow gold mesh bracelet, a masterwork of 394 hand-finished links that draws inspiration from the house’s 1920s archives while hiding an ultra-slim 430 MC manual movement within its lean 7.3mm frame.

Cartier Tortue reimagined. — Photo: Cartier

But the maison’s pursuit of evening-ready perfection doesn’t stop there; the legendary Tortue has also been reimagined, cloaked in platinum and shimmering with nearly three-and-a-half carats of expertly set diamonds.

From the 46 baguette-cut stones framing the bezel to the inverted brilliant-cut diamond crowning the winding stem, every millimeter of the Tortue screams sophistication while keeping the classic rail-track minutes and signature apple-shaped hands.

The experience is elevated with a guilloché dial and a diamond-encrusted buckle that is steeped in Cartier’s inimitable refined luxury.

Function and beauty

Grand Seiko just dropped the Spring Drive U.F.A. Ushio 300 Diver, and it’s a big deal for anyone who loves a smaller fit.

At just 40.8mm, it’s the most compact diver they’ve ever made, yet still packed with their most accurate Spring Drive movement.

The design is all about the Ushio (tide) pattern on the dial.

You can choose between a deep sea blue or a coastal green, both featuring a cool gradient that looks like light hitting the water.

Cartier Santos. — Photo: Cartier

Although sporting an artistic look, rest assured it’s built for the job.

Hands are super bright and easy to read, even in the dark.

This watch is made from high-intensity titanium, about 30% lighter than steel, and features a new adjustable clasp that makes it easy to get the perfect fit over a wetsuit or just for daily wear.

Tough, accurate and perfectly sized, it’s a high-performance tool that looks great on the wrist.

Bridging past and future

Audemars Piguet stole the spotlight at this year’s Watches and Wonders, inviting guests into a sprawling, sensory-driven sanctuary that blurred the lines between its deep-rooted heritage and a bold, futuristic vision.

This immersive exhibition served as the grand unveiling for the Atelier des Établisseurs, a visionary new concept that revives the spirit of co-creation and honours the rare crafts of the watchmaking world.

Wandering through a curated sequence of interactive rooms, visitors were treated to a glimpse of the brand’s soul, where archival treasures sat shoulder-to-shoulder with cutting-edge innovations to tell a story of family values and its unwavering avant-garde spirit.

Audemars Piguet Établisseurs Galets. — Photo: Audemars Piguet

The journey reached its peak in a massive, dual-purpose space that perfectly captured the brand’s dual identity.

One half functioned as a high-tech laboratory, showcasing five generations of breakthroughs in ergonomics and exotic materials, while the other half served as a living tribute to the ancestral établissage system.

A proud heritage

No one blends high-performance engineering with artistic craftsmanship better than Vacheron Constantin.

For the explorer, the Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points features a 41mm Grade 5 titanium case and a textured dial with orange accents that aid legibility.

It is powered by the in-house Calibre 5110 DT/3, an automatic movement with a 60-hour power reserve and a 4Hz frequency, visible through a sapphire caseback.

In contrast, the Égérie Moon Phase Spring Blossom is a 100-piece boutique exclusive in 18K pink gold, showcasing a pink mother-of-pearl “pleats” dial and a bezel set with 58 diamonds.

This delicate 37mm watch runs on the automatic Calibre 1088 L, which drives an off-centre moon phase accurate for 122 years, and introduces the maison’s first hand-painted floral calfskin strap.

Together, these pieces demonstrate a masterclass in versatility, moving seamlessly from rugged tool-watch durability to the refined aesthetics of haute couture.

Visual impact

The latest masterpieces from Chopard masterfully blend acoustic innovation with heritage charm, beginning with the L.U.C Strike One.

Vacheron Constantin. — Photo: Vacheron Constantin

This 40mm titanium marvel produces a chime of crystalline purity through a patented sapphire gong system, yet remains incredibly slim at under 10mm.

Its salmon-toned, ethical gold dial features a hand-guilloché honeycomb motif, a nod to the brand’s industrious roots, while the COSC-certified movement offers a generous 65-hour power reserve.

Joining it is the L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, a refined 36.5mm tribute in ultra-bright Lucent Steel.

Its “Areuse Blue” dial, inspired by the river near Chopard’s manufacture, is hand-engraved with a sunburst pattern that catches the light with every movement.

Both timepieces carry the prestigious Poinçon de Genève hallmark, visible through sapphire casebacks that reveal intricate hand-finishing and 22K gold micro-rotors, proving that high-complication watchmaking can be as wearable as it is beautiful.

Sophisticated minimalism

At Parmigiani Fleurier, luxury is defined by purity and precision, a philosophy epitomised by the Tonda PF Chronograph 40mm.

Crafted in 18K rose gold, its date-free dial prioritises legibility and highlights the COSC-certified PF070 movement, a high-frequency engine offering a 65-hour power reserve within a slim 6.95mm profile.

Pushing boundaries further, the Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux redefines horological stealth with the Calibre PF053.

This world-first, five-hand central display utilises a sophisticated triple-clutch system controlled by a single monopusher, packing 362 components into a remarkably thin case.

Chopard L.U.C Strike One Titanium. — Photo: Chopard

Both timepieces feature 22K gold skeletonised rotors and hand-finished bridges, proving that high-complication watchmaking can be both technically dense and aesthetically minimalist.

Spectacular sculpture

While most watches try to fight gravity, this one does it with a completely new geometry.

ArtyA stole the show at Watches and Wonders 2026 with their latest masterpiece, the Complexity.

Instead of using a standard tourbillon, ArtyA used two “conical” versions with one at the top and another at the bottom of the dial.

These tourbillons move in a unique, tilted path that looks more like a cone than a circle.

Since none of the internal parts are parallel, the watch stays incredibly accurate no matter how you move your wrist.

By linking these two systems together, the movement cancels out any tiny timing errors caused by gravity.

It’s a technical world-first, but on the wrist, it simply looks like a mesmerising dance of gears and precision.

The Godfather’s legacy

Jacob & Co. is back with a sequel that’s just as bold as the original: The Godfather II.

This isn’t just a watch; it’s a mechanical tribute to Jacob Arabo’s favourite film, trading the bulky old design for a sleek, Art Deco-style rose gold case that fits the wrist much better.

The coolest part? It’s a wearable music box.

A small switch at 10 o’clock lets you choose between two iconic tracks: The Godfather’s Waltz and the famous Love Theme.

Hit the button at 8 o’clock and the watch plays your chosen melody with a surprisingly clear sound.

The Complexity by ArtyA. — Photo: ArtyA

The details on the watch is pure cinema.

You’ll find Marlon Brando’s portrait and the classic “puppet strings” on the dial, while the back features engraved bullet holes and a piano-shaped window showing off the internal music gears.

With only 74 pieces made − honouring the movie’s 1974 release − it’s a rare mix of high-end watchmaking and movie history.

Sporty and elegant

Blending athletic energy with a touch of class, the Tudor Royal returns as the ultimate “do-it-all” companion.

This latest evolution revives a storied name from the 1950s, bringing fresh dial shades and an expanded range of sizes − 30mm, 36mm and 40mm − to suit any wrist.

The hallmark notched bezel feels crisper than ever, paired with a sleek integrated bracelet that flows seamlessly into the case.

Thoughtful engineering keeps the links from rubbing against the watch body, preserving its finish, while the T-fit clasp makes finding a comfortable fit effortless.

Whether you opt for the clean look of all-steel or the warmth of gold accents, the 40mm model even includes a handy day-date feature, making it a sophisticated watch that feels right at home on the weekend or at the office.

Precision timekeeping

Ten years after the first movement launched a modern watchmaking odyssey, Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud is opening a bold new chapter that brings its inner mechanical secrets to the surface.

While the brand’s heritage is rooted in 18th-century marine clocks, this latest “Mesure du Temps 1787” collection breaks tradition by moving the complex dance of gears from the caseback to the dial side.

The heart of the watch features a massive 15mm flying tourbillon that appears to float without a top support, paired with a signature fusee-and-chain system to keep time perfectly steady.

It is a true marathon of craftsmanship, involving over 1,200 individual parts – including a chain made of 777 tiny elements that took nearly 300 hours of hand-finishing to perfect.

By utilising a unique pillar-based structure where components are suspended in mid-air, the watch achieves a striking sense of depth and transparency, turning a legendary technical legacy into a visible work of wearable art.